First and Second Days

DAYS ONE AND TWO 

Djibouti is nothing like what I thought it would be like, but nothing surprised me. Before coming, I had delved into the internet to research the country, customs, and history. There is exactly one book on Djibouti other than a Lonely Planet guide. Both were outdated. Djibouti is lumped with Ethiopia, and geographically I can see that, but I cannot see it in many other ways.

I finally arrived in Djibouti, the capital and largest city in Djibouti. Yes, Djibouti, Djibouti. Taxiing down the runway, the first thing I noticed was an American Flag off to my right-hand side. I now know that the American "base" and all the foreign bases use the commercial airport. The American base is by far the largest. It is primarily a naval base planted strategically to defend our interests in the Red Sea/Suez Canal. I am told that there are other branches of the military, too, except Space Force and Coast Guard. 

Down the movable stairs from the plane to a Covid Holding area. Rapid test and 30 dollars later, we are bused the 10 feet to baggage claim. I can see Katherine waiting anxiously just outside the doorway.

I met an Army Chaplain in the Covid line, and he needed a ride to my hotel. Katherine said, "Absolutely," I'll drive you," and we took off in her very cool Land Cruiser. It is a standard, and it has a snorkel on the side to save the muffler from high water getting into it. How awesome is that! Katherine has rented me my very own Land Cruiser for the workweek to explore on my own. Yikes, it is a standard too.

I noticed that Djibouti does not believe in throwing trash in a receptacle right off the bat. The streets are littered (pun intended) with trash and rusting non-identifiable items. I watched as someone threw the large cardboard packaging out their window to something they had just bought. Yep, open up your box, pull out your item, roll the window down and dump. 

Next, I noticed there were no lane lines, or if there were, they were not used. Because potholes from standing water run along the right-hand side of the main beach road, the two-lane road becomes one and a half lane road. And, don't forget that if needed, you can travel in the other person's lane to pass and make a one and a half lane road now become a three-lane road. I white-knuckled and ghost-braked all the way to the hotel. 

The major roads are very nice, gifts from the Chinese in return for whatever favors the Chinese might ask for in return. But, it was good fortune that we were on the beautiful new roads because the secondary dirt roads were flooded and a muddy mess in many places. Djibouti is one of the driest cities on earth, and they had had heavy rain showers the night before. There is no place for the rain to go. I guess that is why Katherine's car has a snorkel on it. In case we accidentally drive into a large hole full of water.  

The Kempinski Hotel is downright beautiful. Djibouti City is on a peninsula running N-S. The hotel is near the northernmost point. Check out some of my photos. I could be in Maui or St. Croix. I am delighted with my accommodation since I am exhausted. 

After a short nap, Katherine and I go on a quick tour. We mostly stay on the main roads, but she cuts through the historic district so I can get a peek, and we quickly realize it is flooded. We head to one of her favorite restaurants, only several blocks from the hotel. We walk the five flights of dimly lit stairs to the top of the building. It is a small, sparsely decorated Hookah Bar/Chinese Restaurant playing African hip-hop music. It could only hold about twenty people, max. They call the Hookah a Shisha in Djibouti, but it is the same as any water pipe you may have seen. It is used to smoke many different flavors of tobacco. Kath says her friends like the Watermelon-Mint flavor. 

The food was incredible. Our dishes had so much flavor; was it the ingredients, or was a ton of MSG in our orders? It did not matter. The Restaurant instantly became my favorite, as well. Not to mention that they had a full bar and wine list. 

We stopped by a small dinner party where some of Kath's co-workers had tacos. Everyone is so lovely and surprised that there is a visitor in Djibouti!  

Day two started with room service and a basket of freshly baked French pastries. I have a soft spot for the chocolate pains and the croissants. Eggs, coffee, fruit, more coffee. Did I say I loved this hotel? It is an oasis in the desert (perfect analogy)! We went for another tour of the city, but it looked pretty different in the daylight. Their weekends are Fridays and Saturdays. We headed straight to the downtown area. It was jammed with people and cars. I laughed because we would come upon a vehicle blocking a street. Someone couldn't find a parking spot, so they just stopped and left their car. Made their own parking spot. 

There are many beggars. It doesn't look like they are hungry or impoverished, but rather that they see a westerner, and the first thing they think to do is ask for money. The young boys scam the drivers by washing their cars while they are gone and then demanding money. Kath had her car washed at the airport. 

Katherine and I stick out. It is a sea of Africans, but we do not feel unsafe. There is little more than petty thievery in Djibouti. The men are respectful and hang around talking in groups. The women were busy working in the markets selling fruits and vegetables and fresh fish. 

The women also sit on the street corners and exchange money—no need for an ATM or bank. I had on my Djibouti bucket list to find the Exchange ladies and get foreign currency. The exchange lady had two friends with her, and we exchanged pleasantries. I pulled out a 100 dollar bill, and she said, "100 US dollars? "Then she calculated in her head and handed Katherine the DJ bills. Katherine was so pleased with the exchange rate, and she tipped her. We waved goodbye to our new friends. 

Another interesting tidbit: Almost all the men chew Khat. Khat is a plant, either leaf or stem, a stimulant. Too much of it, and the men become walking zombies. It is epidemic, but it is also a part of the economy. There was a little table set up on many street corners where the women would sell Khat. And, I think they sell a lot of it!

Kath and I went to the pool for the afternoon. Around 4:00 PM, Katherine handed me the keys to her LC, and I drove us to within several miles of the Somalian border -- on purpose!. We went to see the Declan Animal Refuge center on 30 acres of land. It was an incredible drive, but the refuge was underwhelming, if not a little bit sad. I did see my first porcupine, or I should say eight porcupines, up close and personal. Thank heavens they were eating. We were mere feet from them, and they were huge animals. We didn't want to take any quills home with us, so we kept our distance on a wooden bench. 

Katherine drove home the scenic drive to see the American Embassy. At one point, we had a camel crossing. 

Dinner was in the hotel's Italian Restaurant with Katherine's close friend, Lisa, who was leaving Sunday for two weeks R&R. I booked a massage on my way to my room for in the morning. Katherine was headed to the office early to spend the afternoon with me. 

Stay tuned for our golf outing. There is an eight-hole golf course here. It is played in the dessert. Everyone has a caddie who brings along a small patch of turf. Once you hit your drive or putt, the caddie will find your ball in the sand and put it on the turf for you to hit your next shot. I can't wait to post those photos!

                        FOR MY FRIENDS --VAL AND EDDIE!  

Leave a comment or let me know if you have questions!